The X-Pro 1 and 2 Images Compared: SOOC JPEGS

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I’ve recently written a lot about the comparing the images from the X-Pro1 to the X-Pro2.

You can read that three part essay on the links below:

Part One ¦ Part Two ¦ Part Three

Hacking RAW files and examining the subtle nuances of colour and tone is all very well and good (and it is – despite what you might think 😀 )

But I also wanted to look at the differences between the SOOC jpegs.

Now before I get into this…

There’s some massive caveats that I want to get out of the way.

Not that it really matters, but I’ve used the in-camera RAW convertor for the X-Pro1 image, and the Fujifilm X-RAW Studio for the X-Pro2 images.

(Expect a little write up of X RAW Studio soon)

But the biggest caveat, is that I’m not that much of a Jpeg shooter, and if I do use a SOOC (or tweaked SOOC) Jpeg, then it’s invariably a monochrome one.

There’s blog posts and forum threads galore about the best Fujifilm Jpeg settings

This isn’t one of those.

I also realise that many of you have a preferred series of Jpeg settings, and I can’t really take all of your personal preferences into account.

So, if you’re a SOOC Jpeg shooter, I’m going to assume that you know your way around those settings and if (if…) I’ve provided anything of interest with this post, then you’ll be able to transcreate your own settings from mine.

When I hacked the RAF files from the X-Pro2 to appear to be from an X-Pro1, I noticed changes to the WB and tone curves.

I haven’t looked at tweaking WB in the SOOC images below. But instead focused on what we can achieve with the in-built Jpeg engine’s settings for shadow/highlight tones etc.

So, let’s kick off with our two starter images.

Above is the X-Pro1 image.

Shot in Provia, and the camera was set to aperture priority mode. All Jpeg settings are standardised (Colour/Highlight and Shadow tones/Sharpening and NR are all on zero)

Above is the X-Pro2 image.

Again shot in Provia, and again the camera was set to aperture priority mode. All Jpeg settings are standardised (Colour/Highlight and Shadow tones/Sharpening and NR are all on zero)

We can immediately see quite a big difference.

Now one of the biggest differences between the two X-Pro cameras is how they decide to meter for a scene.

If you leave it up to the camera to decide the metering you’ll typically see the X-Pro2 exposing for shots at values of 1/3 to 1 stop less than the X-Pro1

(Or put another way, the X-Pro2 generally takes darker pictures)

At this point, PERHAPS some of you are reading this and thinking, that’s why I shoot full manual, to be in control and fair play to you – but please bare in mind that if you’re using the camera’s in-built light meter (as opposed to an external one) that you’re still basically relying on what the meter is telling you in regards to the amount of light, even if you’re overwriting it with your own choices.

Anyway, I digress…

In this specific instance the X-Pro2 decided (in round figure terms) to add about 1 stop LESS exposure than the X-Pro1 did.

So let’s see the X-Pro2 with +1 stop added (and no other changes)


Above: X-Pro2, all Jpeg settings at ZERO +1 Stop EV

Wanna see that side by side?


The X-Pro1 Jpeg is on the left

Balancing the exposure between each camera does much to harmonise the two images (funny that 🙂 )

However, we can still see that the colours aren’t quite the same and that the X-Pro1 is still giving us a little more in the shadows (look under the red and yellow broom handles near the top left of the image)

But worse, I think we’ve lost some highlight detail from the pushed-a-stop X-Pro2 image (the top corner of the cream coloured crate)

So let’s try a 2/3 of a stop push instead


Above: X-Pro2, all Jpeg settings at ZERO +2/3rd Stop EV

Wanna see that side by side?


The X-Pro1 Jpeg is on the left

I think that’s a little closer in terms of highlight brightness (remember folks, I did this on a big screen, with the luxury of a 100% view. After compression, and resizing and internet hosting, I rather fear they’ll be a degree of taking my word for it)

Now, as you can imagine… I proceeded to try various different settings on the X-Pro2 image until I got it to look closer to the SOOC X-Pro1 one.

I ended up with this


Above: X-Pro2 with the settings I applied to look like the X-Pro1 shot.

And below the side-by-side with the X-Pro1 image


The X-Pro1 Jpeg is on the left

The settings I ended up with (ie the settings I applied to the X-Pro2 image)

Provia (The same as the X-Pro1 shot)
EV +2/3
Highlight Tone -2
Shadow Tone -2
Colour -1
Sharpness -2
NR -4

I’m NOT saying that these settings will magically make your X-Pro2 make images like an X-Pro1

I DIDN’T try this with all of the film simulations

But if this helps you in any way, or if you’re able to use this as base to make your very own “X-Pro1 Look” X-Pro2 settings, then I’m delighted that my time wasn’t wasted.

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