So last week I shared and compared two sets of images shot with the X-Pro2 camera. I did this to show you what hacking the X-Pro2 RAF (so that the editing software thinks it’s from an X-Pro1) does to the resultant image compared with the default look from the standard RAF file.
This week (don’t fret, this is the last one and if you’re sick of seeing these seven images, imagine how I feel 🙂 ) it’s more of the same, except that we’re going to be looking at the SOOC JPEG output from each camera.
Now I’ve played this “game” before, on this link here in fact… But that time I was only looking at a single image, and in this series there are seven images to compare.
Or put another way…
To take a shot of one scene with two different cameras, then make them look similar with the in-camera RAW convertor isn’t really the same as testing a setting to see how it performs across different scenes.
These images are all SOOC, however they’ve all been resized to 2048 px long edge using SilkyPix V8 Pro. no additional editing, sharpening etc was applied, so each shot was treated uniformly.
For the X-Pro1 images I used the in-camera RAW convertor, and for the X-Pro2 ones I used Fujifilm’s X RAW Studio, which was nice because I can apply changes to one image, copy and paste it to the rest of them and convert them en masse, which beats mucking about doing each image one at a time using the camera.
In case you missed it, I wrote up Fujifilm’s X RAW Studio here
Exactly as last time:
I realise that many of you have a preferred series of Jpeg settings, and I can’t really take all of your personal preferences into account.
So, if you’re a SOOC Jpeg shooter, I’m going to assume that you know your way around those settings and if (if…) I’ve provided anything of interest with this post, then you’ll be able to transcreate your own settings from mine.
So based on the above…
ALL the X-Pro1 images are created with Provia, with ALL the various settings set at ZERO (except NR which was set to -1)
“Hey Adam, why Provia? Don’t you usually use Astia for your Fuji images?”
It’s true I do, but someone on one of forums mentioned trying Provia for a change, so here you go Tim, all in Provia 🙂
Now the last time I did this (with just a single image) I settled on the settings below as the ones to most harmonise the X-Pro2 to the X-Pro1’s SOOC JPEG output.
Highlight Tone -2
Shadow Tone -2
But this time, that didn’t work out nearly as well.
Now I could of treated each pair of images as a completely separate entity (which they are), tweaking things like the tone curve and the WB shift on each set to get them as close as possible, but that would of effectively lead to an article that amounted too:
In order to get the “X-Pro1” look from your X-Pro2, simply take an X-Pro1 with you, shoot the same stuff, then match them in post
Which I think is a bit of nonsense 😉
So I tried to find a set of X-Pro2 JPEG settings that more or less (so that means sometimes more/sometimes less) gave a similar look and this is what I came up with.
X-Pro1 Base Setting
Highlight Tone 0
Shadow Tone 0
X-Pro2 Tweaked Setting
Highlight Tone -2
Shadow Tone 0
So let’s have the test shots, yup same as last time, that wabi, rustic, ever so slightly ghetto charm that I call home 🙂
Some shots look closer than others, some shots still have a significant difference in colour (blue sky for example)
But if (like me) you hold the IQ of the original X-Pro in high regard and you’re interested in making your X-Pro2 SOOC JPEGS look a degree or two closer (I’m not claiming exactly the same) to X-Pro1 shots, then I hope this has helped give you a starting point
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