So last week I went out in terribly harsh binary light with two cameras and one lens.
The X-Pro1, the X-Pro2 and the XF35 F1.4R
I shot RAFs with each camera, edited them as I normally would, then I shared them with you all so that you might be able to compare.
On the various forums etc, this opened up a nice little dialogue (I like when this happens) about who likes which images from what camera and what the differences are.. etc etc!
But this isn’t the first time (by far) that I’ve touched on this subject.
My previous comparison articles on the differences between the X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 images can be found on these links
The X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 Images Compared Part One
The X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 Images Compared Part Two
The X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 Images Compared Part Three
The X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 Images Compared SOOC JPEGS
These articles set out to highlight the differences between the two X-Pro cameras and how to try and apply some harmonisation between each one’s output.
So I thought for this week’s article I’d revisit the images I shot last week, apply my own levelling methods (as detailed in the articles above) and see what it did to the images
(Live Update: I’m pushed for time this week, I have an exhibition coming up that opens in five days and I’ve still got many things to sort out, the update is that I thought this article would be quite quick, but man how wrong was I? This article is taking ages 😀 😀 )
So let’s start with re-visiting the X-Pro1 images with the corresponding revised X-Pro2 edit below each X-Pro1 shot
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
As you can see… The colours are still not identical, but closer I think… and we can the tone curves are closer too (well IMO)
Now let’s look at the two sets of X-Pro2 images, but one as edited last week and the other with the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
X-Pro2 using the ‘RAF Hack’ editing method
I mean don’t get me wrong, as I say EVERY time we do this…. playing games like this is ALWAYS win some/lose some
Some images work better one way, some the other.
Some of you will prefer the colours and darker nature of the unmolested X-Pro2 files, others will prefer the slightly more gentle ‘RAF Hack’ ones.
For me?
These days I always ‘RAF Hack’ my X-Pro2 files, it gives me a starting point that cuts out some of the work I do carte blanche with my X-Pro2 files, and I can always add a darker look with the contrast and/or black sliders if I need it
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A lot of time and effort goes into this site.. Hopefully it’s helped you? Perhaps you’d consider helping me?
One way you could help me is if you want to buy from Amazon, if you do so using the links below, then I will receive a small percentage of your expenditure, and you will pay NO MORE than you would have paid anyway.
Shop at Amazon USA
Fujifilm X-Pro2 ¦ Fujifilm X-Pro2 Handgrip
¦ Shop for Fujifilm X-Pro
¦ Shop for Fujifilm X-T
¦ Fujifilm XF Lenses
¦ Fujifilm XF Acessories
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Fujifilm X-Pro2 ¦ Fujifilm X-Pro2 Handgrip
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¦ Fujifilm XF Lenses
¦ Fujifilm XF Acessories
If there’s a different product you’re considering, then perhaps you’d drop me a line and I can send you an associate link for it?
Another way you could help, is by making a donation. The donate button can be found on the link below
Thank You Very Much!
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The X-Pro Series Content: Referenced and All In One Place
The X-Pro Series Content: A Contents Page with Page Numbers and a Brief Description